Iowegan's Book of Knowledge for the Ruger GP revolver - Download as Word Doc .doc /.docx), PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online. Please visit the Ruger Forum for additional IBOK’s on various Ruger models. Introduction: The Ruger GP is a six shot double action revolver chambered in 38 Special or Magnum. The GP has a larger frame, thicker cylinder, improved grip mounting system, trigger return. A guy did them several years ago & offered them over the net. Due to a few different reasons, he stopped doing this. (IBOK; Iowegan's Book Of.
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Its robust design evolved from the older Security-Six series. The GP has a larger frame, thicker cylinder, improved grip mounting system, trigger return spring, front sight, internal cylinder retainer, and trigger guard latch. Ruger engineers did an excellent job designing the GP Most of the parts are contained by push-out pins or spring-loaded plungers and a mere 3 screws. The design is a modular concept with three main assemblies. The barrel and frame are the host assembly. The trigger guard assembly and cylinder assembly make up the rest of the gun.
The GP has been manufactured in several configurations but the internal parts are all interchangeable. Primarily, the different variations have to do with barrel length, barrel shroud, sights, and grips.
GPs have been produced in both blued and stainless steel models. The only other parts that are unique to a certain model are the cylinders when chambered for a 38 Special or Magnum or hammers in DAO models bobbed. GPs with fixed sights are equipped with compact rubber grips with inserts.
The adjustable sight models come with full sized rubber grips with inserts. Grips are interchangeable between all models and are also the same as Ruger Super Redhawk grips. The grip inserts for the compact grips are the same size as SP inserts. This unique system allows the front sight to be changed in seconds by pushing in the front sight plunger and lifting the sight out of the channel.
The standard front sight is black. Super Redhawk front sights are interchangeable with the GP and have a red insert. There are several Ruger and aftermarket plug-in front sights available in different colors or styles. The adjustable rear sights are the same as most other Ruger revolvers and are click-adjustable for both windage and elevation. Some rear sights have a white outline blade while others are black or V-notch.
Fixed sight models are available in 3 and 4 inch barrels. Adjustable sight models are available in 4 and 6 inch barrels. Base metal and finish: GPs are made in two basic configurations. The blued models are investment cast from high strength steel and are finished with a hot blue process. Bluing only affects the surface of the metal so it will wear off, especially from using holsters.
The surface is resistant to corrosion but it will rust easily if moisture is allowed to contact the gun. This could be from the climate or from fingerprints. Normally, a light coat of rust preventative oil will protect the surface from rusting. The worst thing you can do with any blued gun is to store them in a leather holster.
Stainless steel investment cast GPs are much more resistant to corrosion. In extreme cases, even a stainless gun will rust. All Ruger stainless guns also have stainless steel internal parts. The exceptions are the springs where stainless is inferior.
Besides the springs, the only non-stainless parts are the grips and sights. Initial inspection: Many times, specs are borrowed from another firearm brand and are meaningless due to different designs. Refer to the schematic when part numbers are referenced. Fit and Finish: Examine the overall fit and finish.
Likely you will find scratches, machine marks and other cosmetic issues that have no affect on function. Rugers are intended to be a strong durable gun but seldom do you find one with a perfect finish or where the cosmetic fit is up to the standards of more expensive manufacturers. You will need an automotive type gap gauge set looks like a pocket knife with multiple blades of different thickness, AKA feeler gauge.
With the gun in a static condition, hold the cylinder to the rear and slide the thickest gap gauge blade that will fit between the rear barrel surface and the front face of the cylinder. If the gap is too tight, the cylinder will drag on the barrel when it gets fouled from shooting. If the gap is too wide, you will loose a little velocity but accuracy will not be affected.
Repeat the same test only this time hold the cylinder forward and insert the thickest blade that fits with minimal friction.
Subtract the last measurement from the first one. Endshake should be. If endshake is too tight, the gun may bind up when you shoot it. If endshake is too loose, it could affect other functions of the gun such as cylinder timing, light primer hits, and cylinder lock-up. Insert the case in a chamber and locate it directly in line with the firing pin hole. While holding the cylinder firmly to the rear, slide the thickest blade of a gap gauge that will fit with friction between the case head and recoil shield frame.
This should measure. If headspace is too tight, the case heads may drag on the recoil shield and hamper cylinder movement. Cylinder-to-bore alignment: This requires using a Range Rod and a calibrated cartridge case. Insert the Range Rod into the bore and push it in slowly until the tip of the Range Rod moves through the cylinder and contacts the frame. You may have to help it a little by wiggling the cylinder. Pull the Range Rod out until the tip is past the face of the cylinder and observe the collar in reference to the muzzle.
This will give an indication on how deep the Range Rod has been inserted when testing. Listen and feel for the feeler tip of the Range Rod to contact the cylinder face as you move the Range Rod in and out. If all chambers pass this test, the gun is within specifications. Timing sequence: Timing is the series of events that happen from the moment you begin to squeeze the trigger in DA or begin to cock the hammer in SA and ends when the trigger finally resets for the next shot.
Single Action Cycle: As the hammer is being cocked: Trigger begins to move to the rear. Cylinder latch is pulled down, releasing the cylinder. The pawl engages the extractor ratchet and begins to rotate the cylinder CCW. Cylinder latch is released and snaps up to ride on the cylinder.
Cylinder latch engages the cylinder notch. Transfer bar is lifted into position. Pawl cams off of the extractor ratchet. Hammer reaches the cocking point and is held to the rear by the SA sear. As the trigger is pulled: Trigger moves to the rear raising the transfer bar slightly.
SA sear releases the hammer. Hammer moves forward under tension of the hammer spring. Hammer strikes the transfer bar. Transfer bar strikes the firing pin.
Firing pin strikes the primer causing the gun to fire. Firing pin retracts under spring tension. As the trigger is released: Trigger begins to move forward. Transfer bar is pulled down. Trigger plunger resets on cylinder latch. Pawl is pulled down to reset position.
Trigger is fully forward and at rest. Double Action Cycle: As the trigger is pulled 1. Trigger cams the hammer back. Pawl moves up and begins to rotate the cylinder CCW. Cylinder latch is released and pops up to ride on the cylinder. Trigger and hammer continue to move to the rear raising the transfer bar.
Cylinder stop engages the cylinder notch and locks. Hammer dog releases the hammer allowing it to transfer to the DA sear. DA sear releases hammer allowing it to spring forward.
Initial timing: Swing the cylinder open and look for the cylinder latch that is located on the bottom flat area of the frame, just above the trigger. Now close the cylinder and rotate it slightly until the cylinder locks up. Watch the cylinder latch from the right side as you begin cocking the hammer.
The cylinder latch should drop and free the cylinder before the cylinder actually begins to rotate. Do the same test in DA by pulling the trigger and watching the cylinder latch. Again, the latch should drop before the cylinder begins to rotate. If initial timing is slow, the cylinder will try to rotate before it is released.
This will cause a bind in DA trigger pull or a hard start cocking for SA. A worn or out of spec trigger plunger part 48 or cylinder latch part 6 will cause late initial timing. Carry-up timing: Carry-up is a condition where the cylinder is supposed to lock up near the end of a hammer stroke.
To test, watch the cylinder latch and slowly cock the hammer. The latch should drop then pop back up and drag on the cylinder. The cylinder latch should engage a cylinder lock notch and lock the cylinder in place before the hammer is fully cocked in all six positions. Again in the DA mode, slowly pull the trigger and make sure the cylinder locks up in each of the six positions before the hammer releases.
An excessively premature carry-up can cause a trigger pull gag near the end of the trigger stroke. Late carry-up could allow the gun to fire before the cylinder is locked.
Normally, GPs tend to carry-up a bit early. A pawl that is too long causes premature carry-up. Late lockup is caused by a worn or out of spec pawl or extractor ratchets. Trigger pull: Use a trigger pull test scale to measure SA and DA trigger pull weight. Normal out-of-the-box SA trigger pull is 6 lbs. DA trigger pull is normally 14 lbs. Firing pin protrusion: This means it is spring loaded so the firing pin will retract after being struck.
When the hammer strikes the transfer bar and in turn the transfer bar strikes the firing pin, the firing pin will be driven considerably farther than one would think. If you examine the firing pin protrusion with the trigger pulled and the hammer pushing the transfer bar forward, you will get a false indication of protrusion.
The protrusion test is best conducted after the hammer has been removed and is detailed later in the text. Push off: The sear is designed to hold the hammer cocked in the SA mode. If the sear is altered or defective, the sear could release by pushing on the hammer.
To test, cock the hammer and apply considerable forward pressure to the top of the hammer. Do not overdo it or you will break the sear. If the hammer pushes off, you will need to repair the sear or replace the hammer part 64 or trigger part Cylinder lock-up: To test, dry fire the gun and hold the trigger all the way back to simulate the condition of the gun when fired.
Rock the cylinder from side to side. A few thousandths play is normal. If side play is excessive, a new cylinder latch part 6 may be needed. Parts function, disassembly, tuning, and reassembly. A schematic has been included for part number reference on page Clean each part with solvent before inspecting or dressing.
Remove all grease, oil, powder residue, and bullet residue as you go. To remove the grips, unscrew the grip screw part 19 most of the way out then push on the head of the screw to dislodge the left grip panel part Once the left panel is pushed out, a small disassembly pin part 9 will drop out.
Remove the grip screw.
Push in on the grip panel locator part 18 from the left side until the right grip panel pops out. Pull the grip panel locater out of the right side. Slide the grip part 14 down and off the grip frame. The purpose of the hammer strut assembly is to contain the mainspring and provide a means to push the hammer forward. It is made up of a hammer strut, mainspring, and the mainspring seat.
To remove the hammer strut assembly, cock the hammer then place the disassembly pin part 9 in the hole near the end of the hammer strut part Ease the hammer down until it stops.
Grab the strut assembly and pull it out of the gun. When you reassemble, the strut must be installed the same exact way it came out. Tighten the tip of the strut in a vise. Use a kitchen fork and place the tines of the fork in the spring coils near the seat.
Push down to tension the spring enough to remove the disassembly pin. Note the way the mainspring seat part 28 is installed. It must be reinstalled exactly the same way it came off. Ease the spring and seat off the strut. Be careful with this step because if you slip off, the spring and seat will launch under considerable force.
The hammer strut is a stamped part that typically has very sharp edges. These edges and the ball tip need to be dressed down so the strut does not bind or drag on the mainspring or fulcrum seat in the hammer. Use a file or Dremmel Tool to round all four edges of the strut.
The mainspring develops the energy needed to propel the hammer hard enough to detonate a primer. Ruger typically installs a stronger mainspring than is necessary. A stronger mainspring will make both DA and SA trigger pull harder but it also reduces lock time.
For best accuracy, you want to keep lock time as short as possible yet reduce trigger pull to a more comfortable level. The factory mainspring is rated at 14 lbs. A good compromise is a 12 lb mainspring. A spring kit is available from http: If you choose a mainspring lighter than 12 lbs, you may experience light primer hits misfires and will have a much longer lock time. Install the spring of your choice by placing the strut back in the vise.
Slide the spring in place then use the kitchen fork to compress the spring.
Place the mainspring seat on the strut and secure it with the disassembly pin. Remove the fork and set the strut assembly aside for now. Hammer assembly: The purpose of the hammer is to apply a striking force to the primer when the SA or DA sear is tripped.
The hammer has a small notch on the extension. This notch mates with the extension on the trigger to form the SA sear. You can look in the frame slot just in front of the hammer and see the relationship of the SA sear. The spring loaded hammer dog part 65 is picked up by the trigger cam extension in DA. As the trigger is pulled, the trigger extension cams the hammer back until the hammer dog slips off the trigger extension and is picked up by the DA sear. When the DA sear releases, it causes the hammer to thrust forward and fire.
To remove the hammer part 64 , pull the trigger all the way back and hold it there then use the round end of the hammer strut part 22 to push the left end of the hammer pivot pin part 21 out.
Grab the right flange on the hammer pivot pin and pull it completely out. Lift the hammer out of the frame. Release the trigger. Dress with a fine stone if necessary. To remove the hammer dog, use a paper clip or small pin punch to push the hammer dog pin part 20 out of the hammer.
The hammer dog plunger part 5 and spring part 4 will fall out. It must be smooth or DA trigger pull will feel raspy. Use a Dremmel Tool with a buffing wheel and fine grit compound to dress the lower rear surface of the hammer dog. Inspect the sides of the hammer for smoothness. Dress as necessary to remove sharp edges, rough spots, or residue. See photo on page Replace the hammer dog spring and plunger. Hold the hammer dog in position and install the hammer dog pivot pin.
Test the hammer dog for free movement and spring return. Trigger guard assembly: The assembly contains the trigger, cylinder latch, transfer bar, pawl, and their associated springs, plungers and pins. The assembly is held in the frame by a spring-loaded plunger part The tip of the plunger snaps into a hole in the frame, just behind the trigger guard and inside the grip frame.
Locate the plunger tip and push it forward with a screwdriver or other tool while pulling downward lightly on the trigger guard. The complete assembly will pop out. Set the rest of the gun aside for now. Pull the trigger back slightly then remove the transfer bar part Hold the trigger back with your left forefinger and position your left thumb over the rear of the pawl part With your right hand, pull the pawl to the right to remove.
The pawl spring part 8 and pawl plunger part 5 will try to pop out and launch unless you contain them with your thumb. Remove the pawl spring and plunger. Place your left index finger in the trigger guard behind the trigger. Use your left thumb to push the trigger guard latch in part Use a paper clip or stiff wire and push the latch retaining pin part 20 completely out.
Release the trigger guard latch part 43 and pull it out. Pull the trigger guard latch spring part 44 , and the trigger link plunger part 47 out of the hole in the trigger guard part You should be able to move the trigger from stop to stop with no binding or dragging. If you detect a bind, try to isolate it by watching the trigger move inside the struts.
Once the trigger is out, you can dress the high spots on the sides of the trigger or the inside of the struts. A fine file will work well to remove burrs or high spots. Use a paperclip or small pin punch to push the trigger pin part 70 all the way out.
The trigger part 68 and trigger plunger part 48 will fall out. Position your left thumb over the cylinder latch part 6 and slide the latch to the right to remove. The spring-loaded plunger may launch so keep you thumb in position until the latch is all the way out.
Remove the latch plunger part 30 and the spring part 8 from the trigger guard assembly. If the nose of the trigger plunger is too short, you will get late initial timing. Place the rough side down on a piece of grit sandpaper and burnish the side smooth.
Traded it for th same price I paid for it on a really nice Marlin , a very good decision!! Notice, Wolf Springs tells you, not to lower the weight of hammer springs, if the gun's to be used as duty, or self defence weapon. Whenever I mess with the springs, I begin getting an occasional light hammer strike, particularly when shooting double action. OptimusPanda , AM I used to have one of the 4". The double action must have been nearly 20 pounds or it felt that way.
From the get go it was just a range toy so it was mostly a non issue as I rarely fired it double action. Thundarstick , AM Please please keep in mind the Federal uses small rifle primers that take a harder blow than small pistol primers! I found this from first hand experience. I've learned to stage my shots with both the SP and GP with a heavy trigger and it works for me.
You can't use your experiences with s to extrapolate onto the guns. Apples to oranges in a sense! NSB , AM Please please keep in mind the Federal uses small rifle primers that take a harder blow than small pistol primers! Not completely true. I use SRP in my. They all work in my gun and the springs have been lightened. You'd need to try a couple primed cases in your gun to see if they'll work or not.
I've been using SRP for several years now So far, no problems with using them. If you break something, replacement parts can be ordered from www. Here you can watch a simple animation of the Ruger SP trigger pull sequence. You may also be interested in my custom wood grip guide or my other pages. High quality stainless steel shims can be bought from Lance at TriggerShims. He also has an site store under the seller name "Michigan Center Outdoors".
Lance produces all his shims by hand. This guide was inspired by my personal experience, "Iowegan's Book of Knowledge", posts from the rugerforum. I recommend adding the Adblock Plus extension free to your browser, which does a great job blocking annoying ads, like this one Introduction Steps 1 - 10 Steps 11 - 20 Steps 21 - 30 Appendix. Reassembly Apply a thin coat of oil to all surfaces. Test your revolver for proper operation. The trigger pull should be smoother and lighter.